![]() ![]() A lockup converter was introduced around the 1980 model year, called the TH350-C, which was implemented into order to boost fuel economy. The clutch and band specs depend on the transmissions original application, but the consensus is that the bigger the original engine, the stronger the transmission is. Novak Conversions, who specializes in adapters for Jeep drivetrain conversions, claims the TH350 is the shortest and strongest automatic transmission than can be adapted into a Jeep. Despite this flaw, the TH350 is extremely popular and can be affordably built to handle tremendous abuse. The problem is easily fixed during a rebuild thanks to improvements developed by the aftermarket. Its Achilles heel is the excessive end play between the fluid pump and center support structure, which allows the direct clutch drum to wobble back and forth slightly. It's been a year since I did it, but that's how I remember it.The TH350 is a minor downgrade from the TH400 - as a general rule of thumb, the TH350 was GM's small block transmission, while the TH400 was reserved for big block engines. I found that a large, long bolt (like a 3/4" or something) will thread tightly into the inner diameter of the plug, and you can slide a plate over the bolt before threading it in and hammer it all out. ![]() One other tip about removing the plug from the rear of the crank: I've read on forums that you should NOT use the trick of driving grease into the space behind plug in order to force it out, because crank damage may occur. It's just there to keep the torque converter pilot centered. It should not push the converter any farther away from the crank. ![]() Remember, the spacer people talk about is NOT a spacer. This allowed the cup to sit in the back of the crank like it should without pushing the torque converter away from the crank. I had to remove it with a homemade slide hammer setup that I made with a large bolt. On my 5.3 from a 2006 truck, there was a plug in the back of the crankshaft that looked like a freeze plug. You can probably get the same kit from other vendors. Regarding the flex plate, I'm not sure about GenIII stuff, but if you're running a 5.3 or 6.0, you'll need a dished flexplate and pilot cup for the torque converter snout (Advance Adapters part #712500A). ![]() It might run a little more efficiently with a VSS for better mileage (?). Mine runs like a top without a lick of hesitation, ever. I'm not sure what you mean by "runs better". I have the pin number for the ecm fan ground somewhere if you need it, so you can just run the ground wire of that control circuit to that pin. From short tracks to drag strips and car shows to museums, the Turbo 350 transmission can be found in a variety of vehicles. Just ask Wayne to turn on the fans when he does the tune, and tell him what temperature you want the fans to turn on at. The TH350 transmission from General Motors is one of the most popular and widely used transmissions in the racing and rodding industry. You can get rid of your extra thermal fan switch because the ecm has a pin that activates the cooling fan relay at whatever temperature you set it to. Just passing it along to anyone who does the swap. Not having a scan tool, I went through 2 weeks and $200 worth of guessing and trouble shooting to figure this out. 6.0 and 5.3 O2 sensors are different and non-compatible with the other engine. Yes, the 6.0 harness will work, but you will have to cut the O2 sensor connectors off of it and splice wires into 5.3L O2 sensors. The connectors for the O2 sensors are different from one to the other. Get a 5.3harness for a 5.3 engine, if you didn't already get a harness with the engine. ![]()
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